Today I wanted to see how difficult it would be for me to
walk to the Stazione Termini from my apartment because I leave on Saturday
morning for Puglia. It’s really no
problem at all, even with luggage so that plan is done! Anyway, Stazione Termini is my old stomping
grounds, the hotel I like to stay in for short visits is right there and so it
made me think about this time 6 years ago when I was in Rome, on my way to
Viterbo, as a FIDA. So magical. I was reflecting on that time as I visited
the churches and museums around there and I remember being SO captivated AND so
grateful.
And I still am!
How can one be unmoved by Santa Maria della Vittoria and its
exquisite Ecstasy of St Theresa by
Bernini?
How can one walk through the magnificent Palazzo Massimo, one of the National Museums of Rome, and not be gobsmacked by the aesthetic of Roman sculpture?
And the countless faces, some of famous people and many of just anonymous Romans? All those faces. It is said that Rome had more statues than people. Forse, si?
And then to head over to the Diocletian Baths because maybe
this year, maybe, they might be open.
Alas, no. However, right next to
it is the glorious Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri. Massive, huge columns, and seems to be full
of a golden mist.
According to legend, in 1541 a Sicilian monk named Antonia
del Duca had a vision of the Archangel Uriel among the ruins of these roman
baths. We love it when Archangels drop in
because it’s usually with such awesome style.
Apparently Pope Pius IV thought it was v v groovy so he commissioned a
church to be built where this vision occurred…. And he got the big guy, Michelangelo,
to design it.
But one of the super interesting things to see is this ‘meridian
line.’ During the 18th
century, Pope Clement XI caught that 18th century fascination with
gadgets and science and astronomy and he assigned Francesco Branchini to build
a sundial of sorts. The Pope wanted to ‘check
the accuracy of the Gregorian calendar, and to have a tool with which to predict
Easter with serious accuracy. Every day
at noon, the sun shines through a small hole and casts its shadow on the
line. Too fabulous. There is another one of these at Santa Maria
Novella in Florence.
My dinner was not really imaginative, but it was buonissimo. Pappardelle with pesto and zuchini.
So good to see that you are really in Italy at last, and having a fine time!
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