Thursday, May 25, 2023

Bologna- the learned, the red, and the fat

 Bologna is the capital of the Emilia Romagna.  It is referred to (affectionately, of course) as 'the learned one,' 'the red one,' and 'the fat one.'

I will devote 3 separate posts to feature these names, the how and the why.  

Bologna is 'the learned one' because it was here in the 11th century (circa 1088) that the first university was formed.  In fact, the guide book states that the whole 'universita' concept of education in the middle ages was initiated here with schools devoted to studies in mathematics, literature, geology and sciences such as astronomy.  In fact, Copernicus, who formulated the heliocentric universe model (putting the sun instead of the earth at the center of the universe and thus causing all sorts of swearing, gnashing of teeth and many ceramic mugs to be thrown at walls), studied here.

Bologna is also the city of porticoes.  Miles of them.  Glorious covered walkways:


The Pinoteca, the National Gallery, is very impressive and includes many artists from the medieval and Renaissance who were either Bolognese or influential to the artists of this area.  There is a large collection of medieval art, mostly from the 13th-15th centuries, that are so vivid and quirky.  How can you not love them?
You know, renaissance art is known for its realism and naturalism.  But I must say, you see those qualities clearly in medieval art.  Look at the intensity of the expression, the directness of the eyes, the marvelous coloration of skin:





This is a wonderful triptych that I thought was so interesting:

Bologna is busy, though not as crazy as the main stops like Rome and Florence.  Lots of little side streets for pranzo.... delicious Bolognese fare like tortellini, lasagna, tagliatelle, obnoxious street performers:




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