Santa Maria Maggiore for mass

 It's part of my routine.  I go to morning mass at Santa Maria Maggiore the day before I leave.  It's my way of soaking up as much Splendor and Beauty that I can.  Daily mass is usually held in the Pauline Chapel.  But it's not about Saint Paul.  It's about the man who is buried there and who family paid for it.  Italian history is full of SO many rich and notable families.  But the Borghese, mmmmm, they really were impressive.  They did not just rest on their noble origins.  Many became noted lawyers, scholars, politicians and members of the Church hierarchy.

Born Camillo Borghese in 1550, he became a Cardinal priest of San Eusebio and the Cardinal Vicar of Rome in 1596. When Pope Leo XI died in 1605, Borghese was elected Pope and took the name Paul V. I think he was a pretty active and effective Pope.  He died in 1621 and is entombed in the side chapel at Santa Maria Maggiore.  Absolutely glorious, every surface is inlaid marble of different colors, there is gilt and life-size angels and two larger than life marble sculpture of Paul.

I love SMM.  In fact, I went to mass last Saturday and had a bunch of luck because they were holding a special mass to commemorate D Day.  There was a Cardinal, even, and he was so cute.  About 20 priests and some monks.  A long processional.  The Cardinal gave the most moving homily.  In Italian, of course.  He spoke of the suffering of WWII, the resilience of the Roman people, the horrors of war.  

Bello.