The how and why of Vino Nobile

 Montepulciano has a fascinating history that moves from the Etruscans into the modern age.  It's one of those places where just an innocent stroll through town can reveal such interesting connections to the past.  That is, if you know a bit.  As I stated earlier, Montepulciano is a wine destination.  Smack dab in the middle of the Val di Chiana and the Val d'Orcia (a UNESCO world heritage site), it has been the hub of gorgeous wines for many centuries.

The "big boy" is know as Vino Nobile. Ma, perche?  The Noble Wine because it came from plots of land owned by noble families dating back to the middle ages.  One just has to walk through the main streets to see the palazzi of these noble families: The Avignonesi, Cecchi, Taruggi, Contucci, Ricci....  Gorgeous, robust architecture all made of travertine and looking so handsome:

These stately palazzi are now sandwiched between later buildings but one can appreciate the aesthetics of these homes in contrast to the others.  This section here, that takes up the lower part of an old noble palazzo is a collection of Etruscan urns.  One can see the ancient symbols used on these funerary vessels that held the ashes of the departed.  There are mixed Etruscan and Roman scripts... truly an interesting outdoor museum:

 The Museo Civico is small but mighty and hosts a collection of art ranging from Etruscan to the 18th century.  There is one room that has some magnificent ceramic works by one of the Della Robbia cousins (can't remember which one) that demonstrates such remarkable realism:

Another (practically daily) walk down the long and steep hill, outside the city wall, to visit San Biagio, that quintessential Renaissance church whose base is a Greek cross and whose interior has perfect acoustics.  Che bella chiesa!  San Biagio is the patron saint of throat health because one of his miracles was saving someone who was choking on a chicken bone.  I remember as a darling girl attending Catholic school that we always celebrated the feast of Saint Blaise (anglicized) by having our throats blessed.  Ah, those were the days.  Those blessed days of youth when everything seemed magical because nothing was understood.  Sigh.  

I have always understood lunch, though.  So, on to a lovely trattoria for pici with a ragu of Chianina beef and caramelized onions and a platter of sautéed seasonal vegetables (eggplant, zucchini and onion).  And.... of course.... a glass of Vino Nobile:

A presto!