Wednesday, June 3, 2026

Galla Placidia in eternal splendor

 Did I mention that Ravenna has 8 UNESCO World Heritage monuments?  Hmmmm....

One of the jewels in the crown is the mausoleum of Galla Placidia.  Born in c. 388, she was the daughter of Emperor Theodosius I and his second wife, Galla.  Placidia took her mother's name as well and her birth brought together two Imperial dynasties, the Valentinian and the Theodosian.  It's all very complicated and reads like a Monty Python skit, but when she is kidnapped and held as hostage by the Visigoth king, Alaric.  Lots of grumbling and throwing things about ensued.  The Visigoths headed to Rome because they discovered the verb "sack" in the dictionary and decided that Rome should indeed be sacked.  Which it was, most famously.  Galla Placidia carried away but remaining quite composed during the whole thing.


On Alaric's death, it is decided that she be forced to marry the new Visigoth king, Athaulf, and things begin to settle down because that makes her the Empress!  She settles into her new role, having babies and demonstrating her intellectual prowess and influence. She ends up being a very fabulous ruler.  At her death, her glorious body is entombed in her mausoleum, which is very close to the marvelous San Vitale.

It's a tiny cabana of love, an orb of splendor, a wee hut of splendor beyond dreams.  What a place to have eternal rest.  You walk into this tiny space.  Once your eyes adjust to the darkness, you look up into the most beautiful azure night sky filled with stars.


There are depictions of saints, the four Evangelists, little animals and landscapes.  There is even a cabinet with the four gospels in it.  Not the best reading for all eternity, but hey ho.
And these sweet little chirpers, having a drinkie-poo.
The only light being that which shines through these amber alabaster windows.


It's truly, truly something remarkable. Truly.


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